ŌZU

On the banks of the Hiji River, the small town of Ōzu in Ehime Prefecture often goes unnoticed. Yet behind its discreet appearance, there are some of Shikoku’s best-preserved treasures in a timeless atmosphere. Just a short walk from the station, or along a peaceful stroll by the river, you come across three unexpected places: a villa born from a poetic dream, a wealthy century-old residence with an exceptional view, and a small nostalgic museum frozen in time.

Garyū Sansō : The quiet masterpiece

Built at the turn of the 20th century, Garyū Sansō is not a samurai residence but something rarer: the refined dream of Torajirō Kōchi, a wealthy wax merchant who devoted more than ten years to its construction. The villa and its tea house were built by renowned Kyoto craftsmen in perfect harmony with the landscape and surrounding nature.

The whole estate beautifully embodies the philosophy of shakkei (borrowed scenery), especially in the Fūroan tea house, perched above the river, offering one of the finest views of the Hiji River.

Registered as an Important Cultural Property in Japan, Garyū Sansō remains serene and unspoiled. On rainy days, the atmosphere becomes even more peaceful. When I visited, just after opening, I was the only guest there.

Free guided explanations in English are available for foreign visitors and reveal subtle details that might otherwise go unnoticed. The tour is short but enriching, giving the place real depth. Every beam, every stone in the garden, every glimpse of the river seems carefully chosen to invite contemplation..

Bansensō:  elegance and serenity

Just a few minutes walk away stands Bansensō, the former residence of the Matsui family, who made their fortune in trade in the Philippines at the end of the 19th century. Built as a vacation home, the place exudes elegance: tatami rooms opening onto manicured gardens, wooden corridors polished by time, and above all, a splendid view over the village and the valley.

Generally less visited than Garyū Sansō, Bansensō also invites you to slow down. The near absence of explanatory signs or other visitors gives it an intimate charm, where we can just sit on a chair, enjoy the silence and admire the quality of its architecture.

Omoide Warehouse:  A journey into the Shōwa era

Away in a small street where a flea market is often held, the Omoide Warehouse is a real treasure trove. This little museum, housed in a former warehouse, overflows with everyday objects from the Shōwa era (mid-20th century): toys, posters, furniture, advertising signs, food and cosmetic packaging. Aside from a few small staged displays, nothing feels too organized, it’s more like an attic full of memories, frozen in time.

Despite its modest size, the place brims with objects and details you can spend time observing, soaking in the atmosphere of another time. Even without having grown up in Japan during that era it's easy to feel the nostalgia it conveys.

To take a pause, I stopped at Murakami-tei, a century-old kominka in the historic center, just a few minutes away from the sites mentioned. The atmosphere was warm, and sitting on the tatami facing the little inner garden was the perfect way to take a quiet break to escape the rain.

If you are visiting Matsuyama or even Uchiko, it would be a too bad to miss Ōzu, just a few train stops away. The town offers a genuine journey through time, from the Edo period to the Shōwa era and remains beautiful in every season, in all kinds of weather. It deserves at least a full day, and I haven’t even mentioned its castle, which is also open to visitors.

On rainy days, the atmosphere becomes even more serene and soothing. During my visit, I hardly came across anyone at all. Ōzu is one of those places where you can still feel a Japan far from mass tourism, as is often the case across Shikoku in general.​